标签归档 武汉狼盟

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Domestic beauty cosmetics have found a new "high sense"

Title map | vision china

In 2018, a set of lipstick in the Forbidden City became a hot topic. It makes Chinese people realize that our taste in beauty products is not necessarily defined by international brands. Domestic beauty brands have opened a golden age in the domestic beauty market by promoting China’s aesthetics, and teaching young people in China the secret of "becoming beautiful" with more efficient and accurate channels and closer to consumers.

However, the business model that relies solely on "aesthetic dividend" to form competitiveness is fading.The next question is, how to take the road of sustainable business of domestic beauty products?

"Sustainability" is both a mystery and a mystery. All along, we all know that we should improve the sustainable development ability of domestic beauty companies, but few companies really realize this ability into the product value that consumers can really feel.

At the end of 2022, MSCI upgraded the ESG rating of Yixian E-commerce to Grade A, which was the first domestic beauty company to get an A in the MSCI ESG rating, and its sustainable development potential was recognized by the ESG community. Perhaps there is a road for domestic beauty to cross the cycle?

What is also rare is that Yixian E-commerce owns Perfect Diary, Little Odin, Pico Bear and Darfur Skin.(Chinese mainland business)There are many brands of cosmetics and skin care, such as France Colanli, EVE LOM, Yi ‘an State, etc.-the brands are diverse and the strategies are different, so what should the holding companies hold on to in terms of sustainability? This further tests Yixian Group’s essential understanding of sustainable development.

Yixian found the complementarity between the brand and the brand matrix while striving to improve ESG performance.

Looking for the link between products and nature, Yixian is persistent.

In 2022, the eye shadow disc jointly launched by Perfect Diary and chinese national geography was awarded the cross-border joint track award in "Top Ten National IP of 2021". The color design of eye shadow tray seeks inspiration from Danxia landform, plateau, salt lake and terraced fields in China, explores the modern expression of China beauty, and defines the new fashion attitude of domestic beauty cosmetics with the original and pure feeling of nature.

E-commerce in Yixian, which attaches so much importance to natural value, cannot ignore the sustainable trend in the field of consumption. The green values that products can carry are varied, and which values can really impress consumers and bring competitiveness to products is a process of continuous exploration by brands.

Since 2022, Yixian Group has made a more comprehensive exploration on the sustainable elements of products.

"Sustainable packaging" is one of the focuses of the Group. Cosmetics are a special kind of consumer goods, and the quality of its packaging is often greater than the quality of its contents. So they will produce a considerable amount of solid waste. In this regard, Yixian Group has adopted two strategies: on the one hand, it has simplified unnecessary packaging, especially oversized outer packaging boxes and plastics in packaging; On the other hand, it increases the sustainable materials and recyclability of product packaging.

Not surprisingly, among all packaging materials, plastic has the greatest negative impact on the environment.Yixian e-commerce has continuously reduced the use strength of plastics by replacing plastics with degradable materials and reducing some unnecessary plastic mulching measures. The overall use intensity of the group’s packaging materials has also increased from 0.08 in 2021.(ton/ten thousand yuan revenue), reduced to 0.04 in 2022.(ton/ten thousand yuan revenue).

Yixian first turned the high-end skin care brand into a brand with high-level green packaging. EVE LOM’s product packaging is 100% recyclable, and it has won The Green Dot logo, which has become the sustainable packaging benchmark in Yixian’s brand matrix.

MSCI believes that the sustainable packaging work of Yixian e-commerce has reached the leading level in the global industry. This has also helped Yixian significantly improve its MSCI ESG rating to a considerable extent.

Sustainable packaging will also urge cosmetic enterprises to change their own product aesthetics. At this point, Yixian can be said to have won at the starting line. The design of Yixian’s brand is permeated with the brand’s insight into product use and applicable people, which is intuitive and surprising.

Sustainable packaging can’t be without sustainable contents. Some raw materials of cosmetics will pollute or destroy the ecological environment. Beauty must be at the expense of the ecological environment-this is definitely what consumers don’t want to see.

Therefore, Yixian formulated and disclosed the Requirements for the Control of Raw Materials, explicitly prohibiting the use of raw materials that are carcinogenic, reproductive toxic, skin irritating and harmful to the environment, and strictly controlling the use of regulated raw materials to ensure the safety of products to the human body and the environment. At the same time, the group strictly abides by the "Regulations on the Management of Cosmetic Labeling" and fully displays the product ingredients to consumers.

"Sustainable raw materials" can also become the core tonality of the brand. For example, the core product of Wan Zi, a young skin care brand owned by Yixian, pursues botanical ingredients, without pigment, alcohol and preservatives, and makes "sustainability" a value that consumers really feel.

All consumer goods interpret what is "product responsibility" in their own ways, so that consumers can feel that their needs are fully respected while using the products.

For domestic beauty products, the topic of "responsible products" in ESG has a different meaning.In the initial development stage of "the rise of new domestic products", domestic beauty products left consumers with a heavy impression of value and marketing. Enriching R&D and doing a good job of product inclusion have become the most practical embodiment of "responsible products" of domestic beauty products.

The research and development system of Yixian e-commerce is an open research and development system called Open Lab. The "openness" of the system lies in that Yixian E-commerce integrates the R&D capabilities of itself and cooperative research institutions, and includes the world’s top partners in the upstream and downstream of the industrial chain, such as raw materials, R&D and production.

In 2022, the improvement of Yixian’s R&D capability will make the Group more confident to carry out high-quality transformation.In June 2022, Yixian’s R&D center in Guangzhou was officially recognized by China National Accreditation Committee for Conformity Assessment.(CNAS)Laboratory accreditation certificate issued by. At the same time, the group began to build a large-scale new R&D center in Shanghai, and has jointly organized the Yixian-Ruijin Medical Skin Care Joint Laboratory with Shanghai Ruijin Hospital. On the whole, the Group will build another R&D center in Shanghai.

In 2022, the R&D investment of Yixian E-commerce exceeded 130 million, accounting for 3.4% of the revenue, and its expense ratio ranked first in the industry. By December 31, 2022, Yixian e-commerce had applied for 174 patents worldwide, of which 43 were invention patents.(Some are in the process of transfer).

The research and development achievements of Open Lab continuously support the brand of the Group to launch new potential products. For example, the targeted red repairing technology developed by Yixian and the National Nano-drug Engineering Technology Research Center, Jandard Skin successfully launched the triple repairing essence of Darskin in 2022, and achieved good performance during the Double Eleven last year.

At the end of 2022, Yixian cooperated with Sun Yat-sen University to establish a joint laboratory for accurate research on skin health, which is expected to help Yixian expand its territory on new tracks such as anti-aging and probiotics.

R&D efforts will help the group to climb new technological peaks from the real needs of consumers. The persistence of "responsible products" not only reshapes the research and development of enterprises, but also reshapes the marketing of enterprises at the other end.

In order to implement the principle of responsible marketing, Yixian has set up a strict internal audit mechanism for advertising. The advertising information of products needs to go through four audits to ensure the truthfulness, accuracy, legality and compliance of advertisements.

Also from the standpoint of product responsibility, Yixian also started consumer education on safe makeup and scientific skin care, and added the functions of beauty cosmetics and skin care consultants to the highly sophisticated customer service work, so that the customer service team can scientifically recommend the most suitable products according to the needs of consumers.

On the other hand, the era of seizing the market only by product aesthetics and marketing is gone forever.

In addition to some improvements that can be intuitively seen by the market, the corporate behavior level of Yixian E-commerce has also been evaluated as industry-leading by MSCI. This essentially requires the Group to control risks, comply with regulations, and maintain the integrity of employees in a huge supply chain system and customer service system.

But these are still the "technical" aspects of corporate governance. On the "Dao" level, Yixian E-commerce has launched a new five-year strategy since 2022, cultivating brand matrix, creating a second curve on skin care brands, and building the Group’s R&D and value creation capabilities.

ESG is an effective reference for enterprises to think about their own development motivation and quality. Yixian e-commerce has obtained an A rating in MSCI ESG, and has been well received in some key tasks-But this rating is not an end in itself.The transformation of the Group has just started, so we need to think about the focus of sustainable development in the dynamic.

After the initial exploration in 2021 and 2022, the Group became more aware of the priorities of different sustainable issues and began to put forward some new priorities. For example, in Yixian’s ESG, the emphasis on labor management, data protection, diversity and tolerance has been strengthened, while the core concern on chemical safety has been retained, reflecting Yixian’s strategic judgment on product responsibility and team building.

As we have seen before, every ESG and sustainable development issue, if enterprises think thoroughly enough and have positive value propositions, can often fall into specific development and product strategies. Just as Yixian’s persistence in sustainable products means that the group will be guided by "clean beauty"(Clean Beauty)The concept continues to create environmentally friendly and skin-friendly products, and thus enrich the image of its brands.

So what is the relationship between ESG and brand value building? ESG topic is a set of sustainable development requirements based on industry commonness. Based on these requirements, enterprises can still put forward their own unique ideas and strategies. Then, what really touches customers,It may also come from a flash of inspiration from R&D personnel, a sincere sharing by Xiao Wanzi, a story behind a sustainable component, and so on.

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Why is it more and more difficult for beauty brands to be "new"?

Source: bof

The beauty industry has always relied on a steady stream of products to attract consumers. However, the epidemic is causing the supply chain and product testing to lag, which makes it more difficult for them to launch new products.

New york, USA-The "latest products" area on the shelves in the beauty shop may soon be empty.

Beauty brands and retailers have been relying on a steady stream of products to attract consumers to shop in stores and e-commerce platforms. However, many so-called "new products" were actually put into production before the epidemic. Experts believe that once these products are exhausted, the negative impact of the epidemic will be highlighted, and every link in the supply chain of the beauty industry will have different chaotic problems such as shortage of key raw materials, insufficient packaging and even blocked research and development process.

Therefore, although major brands may be eager to launch new products suitable for the epidemic situation, such as moisturizing cream for "mask skin" and skin care products that can soothe the face or reduce blue light damage, it is not easy to ensure that the supply chain can keep up. Many companies are focusing on maintaining the inventory of existing products.

"From the perspective of product development and release, the growth momentum of beauty cosmetics has definitely weakened compared with the past few years," said Daniel Granatell, managing director of Grant Industries, which develops and produces personal care products.Most brands are still producing core or popular products, and their focus is on continuing existing products rather than developing new products or innovating growth models.. "

Many beauty companies have postponed the launch of new products until 2021, which means that the most eye-catching new product launch will miss the key year-end shopping season. Jessica Richards, founder of Shen Beauty, a retailer focusing on emerging luxury brands, said that most of the press conferences she had hoped to hold had been cancelled.

During the epidemic, brands that want to introduce new products to consumers have to be creative. Researchers are looking for new ways to use raw materials from traditional formulas, such as adding a new fragrance full of "tropical flavor" to the existing shower gel series to help realize the creativity of new products. It is also one of the ways to introduce "new" products without purchasing new raw materials, updating product formulas or expanding products in existing series.

Other companies are changing the way they produce and package their products. Retrouvé, a skin care brand, chose to break away from convention. When Dermal Defense hand cream was launched, the cumbersome outer packaging was cancelled and the inner packaging was streamlined. "My new slogan is,’ Get things done,’" said Jami Morse Heidegger, co-founder of the brand.

Problems in the supply chain

Forced isolation and consumer demand for sterilization products have had an unparalleled impact on the beauty supply chain. Take packaging containers as an example: Charlene Valledor, chairman and product development director of SOS Beauty, a beauty brand incubation company, said that when all retailers are rushing to put hand sanitizer into production, there will be a shortage of containers such as pressing pumps and bottles for other products.

The epidemic also affected the growth and cultivation of many raw materials.

The COVID-19 outbreak this spring disrupted the cultivation of many special raw materials for high-performance beauty products., "said Jared Reynolds, a beauty chemist who is also the founder of Zenagen and Actiiv, the anti-hair loss brands. He explained that this has had a domino effect on companies that now find themselves forced to strive for a stable supply chain, especially those suppliers from China and Europe, who are facing a longer delivery cycle due to travel restrictions and related import and export agreements.

For example, some of Zenagen’s products use a green tea extract from Asia. "Because the supplier was forced to stop production, it could not continue production. When the factory resumed processing and manufacturing, its production cycle was tripled, "Reynolds said.

Other links in the manufacturing industry have also been affected. Earlier this year, Joanna Vargas had trouble purchasing accessories for her face massager under the skin care brand of the same name. She had to postpone the product release for three months to avoid looking for a new supplier.

"Relationships with manufacturers, suppliers and partners are very important to us," she said. "We don’t want to turn to new business partners just to speed up profits for a month or two."

Try to get through it

Big brands have certain advantages in today’s supply chain shortage. They have a better ability to pay higher raw material prices, and they can jump to the forefront of manufacturers’ cooperation teams by placing a large number of orders.

In addition, they usually have more opportunities for cooperation. Christine Hall, vice president of R&D department of Estée lauder, said that Aveda, a subsidiary of the group, has arranged a new product release plan for the next 12 months, which also gives the brand more room for manoeuvre. She said, "We are also striving for more time to finish the work", so that Aveda can ensure the orderly development of new products.

But small brands are also more flexible to some extent. When Seen, a hair care brand, couldn’t get enough press pumps for its shampoo and conditioner, it temporarily decided to switch to a different color press pump. A larger company may not be able to make this change so soon.

Brands that have completed their purchases at home have also gained the upper hand. Bradley Ryan, founder of men’s beauty brand Undercover Man, attributed his recent success to the use of pomegranate oil and beeswax purchased locally.

Credo also doesn’t think its new product launch activities will decrease in the next few months. This is partly because this retailer only sells "clean" and sustainable beauty brands, which Annie Jackson, its founder and chief operating officer, calls "flexible" because these brands don’t rely on fancy packaging design, and they "tend to purchase in China, without considering long-term transportation delivery and other constraints from the epidemic".

The number of tests is reduced.

Product testing is another obstacle that needs to be overcome. Products must meet the safety standards before they are officially listed. For example, the slogan "90% of product users think their fine lines have decreased" requires clinical trials, but the efficiency of these tests has slowed down due to the outbreak of the epidemic.

This means that brands will have to wait longer to publicize the benefits of their new products, which is particularly difficult for the skin care industry.Because many brands take the commitment to quality innovation as their key selling point.

"Most third-party testing institutions have been closed, and the testing institutions that are still operating in the United States need to queue up for a long time to make an appointment," said Tamerri Ater, product development director of Versed Skin Care. "We have found a spare testing institution and tried our best to shorten the testing cycle accordingly."

The above problems also caused Ron Robinson, a cosmetics chemist and founder of BeautyStat, to feel "frustrated" when he launched a new product in early June and failed to conduct clinical trials to prove its efficacy.

"Before the release of the product, we have completed the safety test and internal performance test, so we know that the product is safe and effective ….. but we also hope to be verified by a third party," said Robinson, who completed a four-week test for 31 subjects at the end of July, and wrote in the information description of the product: "90% of crow’s feet, fine lines and wrinkles seem to have improved."

A turning point is coming.

Experts believe that with the epidemic under control, most of these problems can be solved. The sales boom of some products may also stimulate investment in resources needed to accelerate supply chain development.

Dan Langer, chairman of the hair care brand R+Co, said: "People’s interest in health, personal care and sustainability is rising again, and I think we will see real innovation in this industry next year."

Vargas predicts that the slowdown in R&D business will eventually recover, and before that, the whole industry can barely survive. "Now is not the time to introduce new products on a large scale for marketing," she said. "I think products with good quality, high efficiency and simple use will eventually stand out."

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Beauty cosmetics or become the next dark horse of Russian e-commerce

According to YooKassa data, in 2022, the sales of Russian beauty cosmetics e-commerce reached 38.35 billion rubles (about 3.9 million US dollars), and the share of beauty and health products in the Russian e-commerce market accounted for 7.7%, ranking the top five in sales.

Prior to this, Russia’s beauty market was mainly occupied by some European and American brands, including Estée Lauder, Fa, Palmolive, Lush, NYX, Kiehl’s, Wella, Guerlain, Dior and so on. As we all know, since the conflict between Russia and Ukraine in 2022, the West has imposed unprecedented sanctions on Russia, and a large number of companies have withdrawn.

This phenomenon has led to a large number of gaps in the beauty market, providing opportunities for other brands and emerging enterprises to enter the market. For example, China’s beauty brand Perfect Diary has emerged in the Russian market, and its market share is growing. In addition, Russian local brands such as Henney and Svoboda have also gained some recognition in the domestic market.

The Russian beauty market is in a reshuffle period, with new and old brands alternating. Russia did not encounter the economic avalanche as expected by the west, but lived well. The Russian beauty market is expected to expand further. If you are a cross-border e-commerce company doing beauty categories, you can consider it.

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Table tennis World Cup: The schedule will be announced on December 5th! The list of the top 8 was born, and Japan faced a strong enemy.

On December 5th, Beijing time, the Chengdu Table Tennis Team World Cup is about to usher in the second competition day, and the first stage of the competition will also end on this day. The list of the top eight will be ready, and the competition will be more intense!

At present, the China team swept Sweden with an 8-0 victory in the first game, and the next day it will play against the remaining China and Puerto Rico teams in Group A, so it is unlikely to be upset. And next, Japan will encounter an opponent with good strength, that is, the French team with lebrun brothers, Yuan Jianan and others as the backbone, or a fierce battle will break out. Wonderful is worthy of attention! See below for more details.

On the first day of the World Cup, all teams were gradually adapting to the latest 8-win system in 15 games, and most of the top teams won the final victory. The four top seed teams-China, German, Japanese and Korean-all passed the test smoothly, and Guoping even scored a disparity of 8-0. The only surprise was that the Hong Kong team in China lost 7-8 to Puerto Ricans.

Next, Guoping will play against China at 13:00 p.m. and Puerto Rico at 19:00 p.m. on December 5, among which Huang Zhen Ting, Du Kaiyu and A Diaz are undoubtedly the most difficult to deal with, but the main players of Guoping are in an advantage after all, and the probability of winning is obviously higher.

A duel that also started at 13:00 is even more noteworthy, that is, Japan VS France. Friends who are concerned about table tennis know that the French team has made great progress in recent years. A pair of brothers Alex lebrun and Felix lebrun, born after 00, have reached the world-class level, and Yuan Jianan, a woman, has also won Manyu Wang and Ito Meicheng.

Although the French team suffered some losses in the women’s line in this competition, the strength of the men’s line is even worse than that of Japan. If we can break through Zhang Benzhihe and Yukosuke, and the women’s extraordinary performance, we may not be able to bring this formidable enemy down, which is worth looking forward to!

In addition to France, Japan will also play against the United States at 19:00 pm, and the pressure of this game will be much less. However, Zhang An on the other side is in full swing, and he has won Hirano Miwoo before, so it may not be impossible to break through the defense line of the island country again.

There are too many table tennis masters who have not signed up for this competition, so the gold content has declined slightly. However, most of the main players from China, Japan and South Korea have already participated in the war, and the French, China and Hongkong teams are also the best. Generally speaking, there is still some competition. So which eight teams can reach the second stage? Suspense still exists, let’s wait and see: Come on, China!